18" and 20" OOS. Only 16" showing available as of 9:48am Pacific.
Assembly video: until someone provides an assembly video on this exact bike, this is the closest I could find on a similar bike: https://youtu.be/8Ez3a6aoL8c
expiredAlexG30 posted Jun 30, 2022 02:26 PM
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expiredAlexG30 posted Jun 30, 2022 02:26 PM
Framed Ultimate Terrain Mountain Bike (Black)
+ Free Shipping$125
$600
79% offCamping World
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https://www.evanscycles
Bar [amazon.com]
Grips [amazon.com]
Pedals [amazon.com]
Be sure to watch YT for installations. Common installation mistakes for above items include over-tightening and tightening wrong direction.
How to Adjust a Front Derailleur [youtu.be]
How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur [youtu.be]
One main reason MTB/gravel riders upgrade to 1x (one by) drivetrain is to simplify the derailleur adjustments. This bike can be upgraded to 1x later, but would require upgrading the rear hub/wheel. There's nothing wrong with 3x drivetrain on this bike. In my opinion, 1x is more of a quality-of-life upgrade, others might tell you 1x also saves weight.
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I just finished putting all of the stuff on my bike, and the bike stand works great, first ride I was really happy with, this is a nice bike for the money, and a much more relaxed upright riding bike now that is still capable to ride light trails, exactly what I was hoping for. I haven't adjusted the derailleurs yet though... and since I think I made them worse after my first attempt at adjusting without a stand... still gotta do that before I try on a trail. Taking a bike on the trail that like dropping the chain sucks...
I do wish this fork had lockout, even going with max preload setting doesn't really help, there is no substitute for the feeling of a locked fork. For this price, what we get is more than OK IMHO... I will keep an eye out for used/cheap deal for a fork with lockout... I don't want to spend more than $100 on a fork (ideally ~$50ish) as that will put me in the neighborhood of that Kent Walmart bike for $400, which looks to have a few other very nice upgrades along with a much nicer fork, even if only mechanical disk brakes.
Attachment 11862508
Attachment 11862508
Can you confirm that the product you linked to is the coil version of the XCR - not the air spring version?
If it's the air spring version, that's a hell of deal.
If it is the coil version, I'd advise those who want to upgrade from the stock fork to save up more more money and get yourself an air spring type of fork. SunTour, Rockshox, Fox, or Manitou - all make good forks once you get out of their lower end range models.
Air spring forks are generally going to be:
Lighter
Quieter
Highly tunable
Serviceable / Rebuildable
And offer much better performance.
Those are general points. You'll find exceptions of course.
Changing out a fork is a project. So I advise you get an air spring fork that you want to keep for several years. So maybe invest in one that your riding skills can grow into vs one you'll be disappointed with in 6 months.
Just my opinion tho…
Attachment 11862508
If it's the air spring version, that's a hell of deal.
If it is the coil version, I'd advise those who want to upgrade from the stock fork to save up more more money and get yourself an air spring type of fork. SunTour, Rockshox, Fox, or Manitou - all make good forks once you get out of their lower end range models.
Air spring forks are generally going to be:
Lighter
Quieter
Highly tunable
Serviceable / Rebuildable
And offer much better performance.
Those are general points. You'll find exceptions of course.
Changing out a fork is a project. So I advise you get an air spring fork that you want to keep for several years. So maybe invest in one that your riding skills can grow into vs one you'll be disappointed with in 6 months.
Just my opinion tho…
- RockShox Judy Silver TK. I bought one last year for $157 with a coupon. Current prices are only a 25% coupon away, and we're close to holiday sales season again
- Manitou Markhour. This is usually > $200 but if you're patient, I got one used on Amazon for $150. Fork was brand new with uncut steerer tube, but factory box was beat up
- Suntour Epixon. Just bought one a few weeks ago for $85 from Europe, no tax, free shipping. Comes with remote lockout and remote, though I may swap out for manual lockout as I don't like a cluttered cockpit. Unfortunately this is for 27.5 only so won't work on this Framed 29er, else I would have posted this here much earlier
If you look around and be patient, there are inexpensive good name brand entry air forks to be had. You can tune these forks with an air pump to match your body weight for a very plush ride on/off road, and rebound adjustment that actually work, unlike these Suntour entry coil forks with basically zero adjustments.Or you could take a chance on some no name Chinese air forks off Amazon like Lutu, Bolany, ZTZ, Himalo...etc (I think they're all from same factory just constantly being rebranded with little internal differences) for $100 and change, though I recommend against these as I've seen too many reliability issues reported while others had no issues.
If it's the air spring version, that's a hell of deal.
If it is the coil version, I'd advise those who want to upgrade from the stock fork to save up more more money and get yourself an air spring type of fork. SunTour, Rockshox, Fox, or Manitou - all make good forks once you get out of their lower end range models.
Air spring forks are generally going to be:
Lighter
Quieter
Highly tunable
Serviceable / Rebuildable
And offer much better performance.
Those are general points. You'll find exceptions of course.
Changing out a fork is a project. So I advise you get an air spring fork that you want to keep for several years. So maybe invest in one that your riding skills can grow into vs one you'll be disappointed with in 6 months.
Just my opinion tho…
Not everyone needs an air fork, and for my needs which is mostly paved and light trails I felt this would be more than sufficient. So far I feel I'm right.
The Trek Marlin doesn't even option an air fork until you get to the Marlin 8 which is over $1300. Based on that bike, I'd imagine that an air fork is for someone who is competing or primarily riding XC.
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Not everyone needs an air fork, and for my needs which is mostly paved and light trails I felt this would be more than sufficient. So far I feel I'm right.
The Trek Marlin doesn't even option an air fork until you get to the Marlin 8 which is over $1300. Based on that bike, I'd imagine that an air fork is for someone who is competing or primarily riding XC.
I just finished putting all of the stuff on my bike, and the bike stand works great, first ride I was really happy with, this is a nice bike for the money, and a much more relaxed upright riding bike now that is still capable to ride light trails, exactly what I was hoping for. I haven't adjusted the derailleurs yet though... and since I think I made them worse after my first attempt at adjusting without a stand... still gotta do that before I try on a trail. Taking a bike on the trail that like dropping the chain sucks...
I do wish this fork had lockout, even going with max preload setting doesn't really help, there is no substitute for the feeling of a locked fork. For this price, what we get is more than OK IMHO... I will keep an eye out for used/cheap deal for a fork with lockout... I don't want to spend more than $100 on a fork (ideally ~$50ish) as that will put me in the neighborhood of that Kent Walmart bike for $400, which looks to have a few other very nice upgrades along with a much nicer fork, even if only mechanical disk brakes.
I havent set up the framed bike yet but will do so today most likely. I've been concerned about the height of the frame size. I can cut the seat about 1-2" if needed or should I buy an aftermarket seat . I do like the idea of upgrading the bike for FUN and possibly a new hobby for me.
The walmart kent bike seems like a better fit for me at 5'9". If I sold the Framed bike at $300, the walmart kent bike will be about $320 ish out of pocket. Think I'm headed down the rabbit hole with upgrades on either one.
The walmart kent bike seems like a better fit for me at 5'9". If I sold the Framed bike at $300, the walmart kent bike will be about $320 ish out of pocket. Think I'm headed down the rabbit hole with upgrades on either one.
1. From others posts here, seems seat post could go all the way down on the 20" frame. So even if you cut the seat post, saddle won't go any lower.
2. On the 18" frame I assembled for my friend, there's probably 4" of seat post exposed above top of the seat tube for my proper riding height. I posted a pic earlier. So on a 20" frame, the saddle would just need to be lowered by 2" to stay the same height, still leaving 2" of exposed seat post. And you are taller than me and assuming your legs are longer than mine, you shouldn't need to slam the saddle all the way down for proper riding height even on a 20" frame.
Bike upgrades can become a deep rabbit hole. Just remember your upgrades should help improve your skills on the trails. This bike as-is is perfectly fine for beginners, except maybe the pedals and grips.
Will hopefully take it out for a ride today pending weather
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Will hopefully take it out for a ride today pending weather
EDIT: For anyone interested in adding a dropper seatpost later. those usually go from 100mm travel and up. 100mm is about 4 inches. If you don't have at least 4+" of your seat post above the seat tube, a dropper upgrade most likely won't do you any good except waste money.
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