Menards has
2" x 4" x 8' Construction/Framing Lumber for
$2 each after Mail-In Rebate. Select free store pickup where stock permits.
Thanks to community member
rahimkcharania.psu for finding this deal.
Note, limit of 100 per customer.
Rebate steps:
- Pick up your rebate redemption certificate at the service desk or print it online from www.menards.com
- Mail in the certificate along with the rebate receipt located at the bottom of your purchase receipt.
- Receive your Menards merchandise credit check in the mail. (Please allow 6-8 weeks for processing.)
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Menards rebates are some of the easiest to submit and track, and have been the most reliable rebates I have run into.
Some mailings have gone two months late and they've never failed to honor them.
My take: It's a good, honest and competent merchant.
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If you're buying for business use why don't you just fill out the piece of paper that says so? It lets you avoid paying tax at point of sale. You charge the customer the tax later, and file that with your tax paperwork when all is said and done.
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Menards has spotty lumber, but these are the nicest 2x4s I've probably ever purchased. YMMV on that, but it ended up being a great deal for me.
In Florida where I live, for example, each town or county enforces its own building code. They are all largely similar and based on a National Building Code ("NBC") model which is adopted into law as modified by the state.
In my case, the Florida Building Code or FBC...which as mentioned above, is then adopted by each municipality...with its own modifications...PLUS its own electrical, plumbing, and HVAC or "mechanical" codes for your subcontractors.
My point is that, among many other things, my P.E. or state licensed professional engineer's plans (drawn to comply with my city's adaptation of the Florida Building Code) specify, for example...
....that any studs that come in contact with any cementitious material, like bottom plates on poured slabs and wall studs covering the concrete or block perimeter walls must be pressure treated, non contact, #2 southern yellow pine (SYP), and,,,
...must be affixed with galvanized or zinc plated fasteners of a specified length (like a ¼" width X 3½" length Tapcon penetrating the underlying cementitious substrate by at least 2"...
...and then, of course, there are "Simpson" tìe-downs and strapping...and insulation for living space...and nailing patterns, etc., etc., etc!
Respectfully, many of you know all this, and for those of you who are less familiar, I simply offer it as a "heads-up" that things you already know how to do well and things that may never make a bit of difference may some day.
I think it's the Bible that says to all among us who are unlicensed contractors and DIYers, "love thy neighbor,"...and your Realtor, and your home inspector, and your insurance adjuster...because some day, your best work might come back and bite you in the A$$.
Peace friends. Have fun and a great weekend.
Steve
Yeah. Technically speaking, your anchor bolts should be tied to your foundation 12" down and use 5/8" anchor bolts and HDU5(at least here in NY). Then strap it with cs20.
I know you guys in florida have to use hurricane strapping for uplift connections and twisting.
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