Update: This popular deal is still available.
Eco-Worthy-US via eBay has select
Eco-Worthy LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Multi-Purpose Batteries on sale for the prices listed below when you apply
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SPRINGSAVE20 at checkout.
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Thanks to Deal Hunter
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Top Comments
you are misunderstanding the old school ways of setting charge modes and profiles for lead acid batteries. the charge mode and float mode are legacy methods associated with iron core transformers and liner voltage regulators when you needed to physically switch between current levels and voltage levels.
modern chargers current charge up to a taper voltage level then switch to constance voltage mode which is typically 13.5-13.8v. anyway I am sure your understanding is lost in semantic nuances. it's not your fault but I want to help people in the thread understand how it works enough to have the right perceptions.
I won't get into the chemistry but when you put an SLA cell above about 14 ish volts you start to dissociate hydrogen in the electrolyte. That is gas. You may have noticed flooded batts are vented and SLA batteries have pressure release valves built in for this reason to prevent bad things
https://www.batteriespl
Don't tell me to stop. I'm just correcting you erroneous statements I'm not trying to pick on you. I think you are just extrapolating wrong statements from some simple misunderstandings of the electronics and battery systems
Trust an EE PhD as hard as that might be.
have a great day. and happy to direct you to good articles if interested.
The charger in a UPS is designed for SLA will cut off charging when the battery reaches 12.46v and shut off the UPS when the battery drops close to 11.59v. That means the LiFePO will never be full charged or discharged. So in that sense it's safe to use in a UPS.
However because it will keep the battery to SLA specs, you'll only be using approximately 23% of the battery's capacity. So that 10ah LiFePO will behave more like a 2.25ah SLA battery in the UPS.
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168 Comments
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Kids ride-on toys typically use SLA style batteries, vs ebikes which use Lithium Ion batteries.
Where in that spectrum do these LiFePO4 batteries fall? Can you upgrade a kids ride-on car with one of these as long as you match voltage? Similar question for using these on a full fledged e-bike. I have dabbled with both building ebikes as well as modding my kids ride-on toys. But I cannot for the life of me figure out if these LiFePO4 style batteries are similar to either technology.
Alternatively, could these be used to replace the 12v battery in my RV?
1. Ignore all the advice in this thread: some very bad ideas and mis-understandings. For research, maybe try https://diysolarforum.c
2. You need to put a DC-DC converter with a current limiter between the alternator and the LiFePo4 battery bank. LiFePo4 will continuously draw very high current and overheat or burn out the alternator.
3. You cannot safely charge LiFePo4 batteries below freezing. You need a separate monitor to turn off the charging and/or a warming pad to bring them up to temp. If you don't camp in the winter, then no problem.
4. The RV starting battery very likely draws too much current when starting. Many keep the lead acid for under the hood.
Ebike: Many ebikes use lithium ion batteries, some use LiFePo4. The charger has to match the battery. LiFePo4 are a bit bigger but do not have the fire risks.
Good luck!
ive read that you can use the regular lithium ion charging profile for the MPPT, but to get the best life out of the lifepo4 you need to customize it.
wont be using it to start anything... just running lights, water pump, the radio, and occasional inverter use. and maybe one day an LTE modem/router.
LiFePO4 is a big plus in high cycle applications - like you said, using them frequently. You get 1000's of cycles at 80% depth of discharge.
Regarding charge profile, you don't want to charge until the BMS disconnects the battery - especially when charging from solar, otherwise you'll get a spike in voltage when the BMS disconnects and the controller cannot (will never) regulate it fast enough. I know folks that have damaged their ham radios. So best to charge to 13.8V with a 2 hour 'equalization' voltage, then drop back. 13.8V for 2 hours gets you into the high 90's charge level, and 13.8V is low enough that the BMS doesn't disconnect the pack (unless the pack has wildly out of balance cells).
So it's not due to self discharge.
Amazon hasn't had it in stock for awhile. Not sure if Weize will ever carry it again since they seem more targeting car sized 100ah lifepo4 batteries.
I bought it on recommendation of this youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sge3IKW
Yes, it fits in my APC. I think the APC manufacture part is RBC2.
This may be fine for a UPS that is running networking equipment at 50-100W but it is inadequate for a desktop computer working hard or a gaming computer. During a power outage the UPS would likely shut off prematurely due to overcurrent on the battery rather than actually draining the batteries as intended.
More to my point, can it run my trolling motor that has a max. draw of 52A ?
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I am asking because right now I only need one. Considering the 150AH one comes with metal case, thought it is the one I will be getting for now. In the future, if I need to upgrade to 24v or 48v, can I get some 12Vs but in different capacities to form the 24V or 48V system? Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
oldcotton
I am asking because right now I only need one. Considering the 150AH one comes with metal case, thought it is the one I will be getting for now. In the future, if I need to upgrade to 24v or 48v, can I get some 12Vs but in different capacities to form the 24V or 48V system? Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
oldcotton
So I would say you do not want to be putting a lithium chemistry into a UPS unless you know exactly what you are getting into and the dangers or them. The misnomer that LFP wont catch on fire is baloney. I have seen industrial UPS fires w/ LFP more than once. Most still use SLA or 12V AGM (large ones) along w/ Diesel.
Also pricewise I find my SLA last at least 5-7 years and cost 50% so the ROI isn't really there for these even if they did work. I could put them in my enterprise APC but I am not solid on these no name Chinacom LFP in my house.
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I am asking because right now I only need one. Considering the 150AH one comes with metal case, thought it is the one I will be getting for now. In the future, if I need to upgrade to 24v or 48v, can I get some 12Vs but in different capacities to form the 24V or 48V system? Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
oldcotton
Consider this: a 12v 10AH and 3x 12v 30Ah all in series.
After you drain 10Ah from the set, the smallest capacity battery will be empty and the BMS will open circuit and the extra capacity of the other three batteries (20Ah remaining x3) will go unused.
Hope that makes sense
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