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L10: Grand Master
Forum Thread
briang's OFFICIAL BYO (brew your own) thread where Matt is a Pro Brewer .... we knew him back when!
December 17, 2008 at
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everyone else has theirs.... i want mine.
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Community Wiki
Last Edited by daveotero
November 11, 2009
at
10:51 AM
Here it is folks..... add your links.
Good vendors to order from:
www.rebelbrewer
www.northernbre
www.morebeer.co
www.freshops.co
www.austinhomeb
www.midwestsupplies.com [midwestsupplies.com] Accepts paypal
http://homebrewheaven.
Recipe Database:
Award Winning Recipes, Including Denny Conn and Jamil Z. [beerdujour.com]
Brew 365 Recipes [brew365.com]
Tasty Brew's Recipes [tastybrew.com]
Hop Information:
Hop Union PDF [hopunion.com]
Oregon Hop Commission [oregonhops.org]
Beer Calculators:
ABV and Calorie Calculator [probrewer.com]
Hydrometer Correction Calculator [hbd.org]
IBU Calculator [tastybrew.com]
Bottle Priming Calculator [tastybrew.com]
Mash Calculator [rackers.org]
Equipment How To's:
Create your own Mash Tun [lustreking.com]
Create your own 3-Tier Brew Sculpture Simple Schematic [imajininteriors.com] Pic [homebrewtalk.com]
Great Beer Radio:
The Brewing Network [thebrewingnetwork.com]
All Grain Brewing Info:
Sparge Methods [hbd.org]
Step by Step Video [homebrewtalk.com]
All Grain Home Brewing (1 to 8) [youtube.com]
Keg dimensions for use in determining refrigerator and chest freezer sizes:
http://www.wortomatic.
Terminology & Abbreviations:
Home Brewing Wiki [homebrewtalk.com]
What you'll need to start:
A stainless steel (preferably) stock pot, at least 3 gallon capacity. Aluminum will do.
A basic brewing kit. Northern Brewer item #7601 [northernbrewer.com]
A recipe kit [northernbrewer.com]. I would suggest a porter or a stout for your first brew, as dark brews are very forgiving of beginner mistakes. I would suggest using US-05 dry yeast.
A fermometer, NB item #7411 [northernbrewer.com]
Starsan Sanitizer, NB item #7930 [northernbrewer.com]
I would *highly* suggest some Fermcap-S, unless you like scrubbing nasty gooey dried up wort off your stovetop, NB item #9136 [northernbrewer.com]
Good vendors to order from:
www.rebelbrewer
www.northernbre
www.morebeer.co
www.freshops.co
www.austinhomeb
www.midwestsupplies.com [midwestsupplies.com] Accepts paypal
http://homebrewheaven.
Recipe Database:
Award Winning Recipes, Including Denny Conn and Jamil Z. [beerdujour.com]
Brew 365 Recipes [brew365.com]
Tasty Brew's Recipes [tastybrew.com]
Hop Information:
Hop Union PDF [hopunion.com]
Oregon Hop Commission [oregonhops.org]
Beer Calculators:
ABV and Calorie Calculator [probrewer.com]
Hydrometer Correction Calculator [hbd.org]
IBU Calculator [tastybrew.com]
Bottle Priming Calculator [tastybrew.com]
Mash Calculator [rackers.org]
Equipment How To's:
Create your own Mash Tun [lustreking.com]
Create your own 3-Tier Brew Sculpture Simple Schematic [imajininteriors.com] Pic [homebrewtalk.com]
Great Beer Radio:
The Brewing Network [thebrewingnetwork.com]
All Grain Brewing Info:
Sparge Methods [hbd.org]
Step by Step Video [homebrewtalk.com]
All Grain Home Brewing (1 to 8) [youtube.com]
Keg dimensions for use in determining refrigerator and chest freezer sizes:
http://www.wortomatic.
Terminology & Abbreviations:
Home Brewing Wiki [homebrewtalk.com]
What you'll need to start:
A stainless steel (preferably) stock pot, at least 3 gallon capacity. Aluminum will do.
A basic brewing kit. Northern Brewer item #7601 [northernbrewer.com]
A recipe kit [northernbrewer.com]. I would suggest a porter or a stout for your first brew, as dark brews are very forgiving of beginner mistakes. I would suggest using US-05 dry yeast.
A fermometer, NB item #7411 [northernbrewer.com]
Starsan Sanitizer, NB item #7930 [northernbrewer.com]
I would *highly* suggest some Fermcap-S, unless you like scrubbing nasty gooey dried up wort off your stovetop, NB item #9136 [northernbrewer.com]
263 Comments
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Sanitized the fark out of everything.
I am going to do a few runs (like 10 or so) or partial mash before attempting all grain.
Sanitized the fark out of everything.
Yep....Dumped the bittering hops and KABLAM! Pulled it off the heat and stirred a lot. Boiling nicely after the heat break. My house smells like boiled peanuts
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1.Should I move it to a secondary (I have a glass carboy)
2. Whats the point of using a secondary?
3. When should I move it
4. Part of the idea is to leave the trub in the primary, correct?
k, thanks
1.Should I move it to a secondary (I have a glass carboy)
2. Whats the point of using a secondary?
3. When should I move it
4. Part of the idea is to leave the trub in the primary, correct?
k, thanks
1) Not yet. Primary fermentation is normally not done until 7-10 days depending on style. Go by final gravity readings instead of the airlock.
2) To finish off any fermentation, to further separate and clear out the beer.
3) After 7-10 days or when you get to your target gravity.
4) Correct. To help with this, I free hand my siphon. I hold it just under the top of the beer while it's moving to my secondary/keg. Only at the end is the tip of the siphon down in the yeast cake.
Any comments on a refractometer? I was looking at this one for him: http://www.northernbre
Pros/cons?
if you add brown sugar to the fermentation you are either going to reactivate the fermentation which will primarily just dry out your beer and boost alcohol....or if your yeast got lazy its going to make it too sweet... if your yeast became inactive, you can try swirling your carboy to stir up the yeast and see if that wakes them up, or you can repitch fresh yeast(i would wait because usually yeast gets excited easy by simple sugars).... If you do choose to add brown sugar, bring some water to a boil, stir the brown sugar in boiling water, then dump it in... that will help dilute the sugar and sanitize the sugar as well.
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if you add brown sugar to the fermentation you are either going to reactivate the fermentation which will primarily just dry out your beer and boost alcohol....or if your yeast got lazy its going to make it too sweet... if your yeast became inactive, you can try swirling your carboy to stir up the yeast and see if that wakes them up, or you can repitch fresh yeast(i would wait because usually yeast gets excited easy by simple sugars).... If you do choose to add brown sugar, bring some water to a boil, stir the brown sugar in boiling water, then dump it in... that will help dilute the sugar and sanitize the sugar as well.
OK Were you talking about adding brown sugar to the primary or secondary fermentation? I do not want to add heaps of brown sugar, just enough to sweeten it up a bit. Midwest Brewing says 1/2 - 1lb, but it should have been added with the malt extract. It is a English Brown Ale.
I do not think the yeast is inactive. It has been about 3 1/2 days and I am getting bubbling in the primary about every 20 -25 seconds. It seems to have slowed a lot since day 2, but I understand that is normal from the How to Brew book (J. Palmer).