I just purchased this water heater, normally $1299, for $799 + tax + $75 shipping.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem.../312742081
Steps to get deal:
1) Go to above link
2) Change store to zip code 15010(Edit: use Zip 97322 for $699 instead of $799)
3) Select Ship to Home (unless you happen to live close to this store), add to cart.
4) Check out.
Additional notes:
1) Federal tax credit of $300. State tax credits vary, in my home state we get an additional $400 (bringing this heater down to $99 + $75 shipping + tax).
2) For many/most, the $75 shipping is worth it even if you can get this price locally as these heaters are quite heavy and supposedly must be transported vertically.
3) Do your homework on these hybrid heaters before purchasing. You need 220V to operate. Installation expense is generally much higher with hybrid electric vs standard electric resistance heaters and gas heaters. Hot water recovery is very slow (but you can switch to standard electric mode for rapid recovery when you know your usage will be high, e.g. having company over). They can apparently be loud, so if this will be located close to a bedroom, important to think about. There are important climate and installation location factors to consider--just google.
4) The newest generation of this series from Rheem, called "Proterra" can be had for $1269, a slight discount compared to full price (15% for my location). After carefully examining specs, photos, etc - it seems that the only difference with the Proterra series is built-in leak detection with auto-shutoff. FYI if that feature is important to you, you can add it for $219:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem...513?NCNI-5
5) This is for 50 gallon. Looks like if you need 65 gal or 80 gal, the Proterra is actually on sale (whereas the Performance Platinum is full price), making the Proterra cheaper.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem.../312742081
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I am worried that it won't regenerate fast enough for a full tub and also that it will be loud and running in my basement all day. The delivery fee is $75 and non-refundable so I can't cancel it now to do more research. I am coming from a power vented gas heater which is 19 years old. The vent is pretty loud, but only runs for maybe 5-10 minutes even when the tank empties. I am wondering if I am better off waiting for this one to die and then getting a new gas one with a power vent that I now will have better regeneration.
Picked up another now as I have a need and this is a much better price.
I am worried that it won't regenerate fast enough for a full tub and also that it will be loud and running in my basement all day. The delivery fee is $75 and non-refundable so I can't cancel it now to do more research. I am coming from a power vented gas heater which is 19 years old. The vent is pretty loud, but only runs for maybe 5-10 minutes even when the tank empties. I am wondering if I am better off waiting for this one to die and then getting a new gas one with a power vent that I now will have better regeneration.
If I had gas I'd go tankless.
Luckily we had a 9 year (lol didn't know they went that long) warranty from lowes on it, I called lowes and they said they would have to call me back in 24 hours. They called me 2 days later and said they didn't have anyone in the area that worked on them (I live 20 minutes away from downtown of one of the 30 largest cities in the US fwiw). Their solution was to credit me the entire cost of the water heater and the service plan ( worked for me ), I was going to just live with the extra electric cost, but then saw this SD and grabbed it.
Net gain of a few hundred bucks since the old one was $899 before tax, and I estimate about $180 a year in savings on the water heater going with a heat pump model. I run it in heat pump only mode from Apr-Nov and hybrid the rest of the year. I don't mind a slower recovery since we added a bathroom on to an addition of that house that has it's own independent propane hot water on demand heater, people can shower out there if we have a bunch of company and never run out of hot water.
You can self install these super duper easy with sharkbite connectors they work great, I already have most of the tools ( pex cutter, sharkbite remover etc ) and even the current hot water heater is using sharkbite connectors so I can move those easy and won't have to rebuy.
Anyone have any substance one way or another? If I can get away with sharkbites for 10-20 years, then that will remove any doubt that I need a licensed plumber to do this install.
The instructions say to use flexible connections...does anyone have any substance on whether these will fail as well or if I need to run solid copper all the way to the inlet/outlets and then crimp them on? I'm assuming if I use flexible connections, that I should be avoiding the everbuilt brand from Home Depot, correct? :-)
Anyone have any substance one way or another? If I can get away with sharkbites for 10-20 years, then that will remove any doubt that I need a licensed plumber to do this install.
The instructions say to use flexible connections...does anyone have any substance on whether these will fail as well or if I need to run solid copper all the way to the inlet/outlets and then crimp them on? I'm assuming if I use flexible connections, that I should be avoiding the everbuilt brand from Home Depot, correct? :-)
Both are good. Sort of a pros and cons decision and which one you'll be happy with. If you install them correctly either one is a good choice.
I have two friend plumbers. Both would use pex and crimps over copper. If they use copper they both prefer sweat over sharkbite or propress. But they both have used Sharkbite on copper and pex. They're biggest complaint about Sharkbite is the cost.
Both are good. Sort of a pros and cons decision and which one you'll be happy with. If you install them correctly either one is a good choice.
I have two friend plumbers. Both would use pex and crimps over copper. If they use copper they both prefer sweat over sharkbite or propress. But they both have used Sharkbite on copper and pex. They're biggest complaint about Sharkbite is the cost.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing..._25_
Most of the house is copper, so I'd have to go from copper to pex. Guess I'll just study up and learn how to sweat on an adapter for pex. Can't be that much different from soldering wires. Just gotta use the right flux and solder. :-)
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Anyone have any substance one way or another? If I can get away with sharkbites for 10-20 years, then that will remove any doubt that I need a licensed plumber to do this install.
The instructions say to use flexible connections...does anyone have any substance on whether these will fail as well or if I need to run solid copper all the way to the inlet/outlets and then crimp them on? I'm assuming if I use flexible connections, that I should be avoiding the everbuilt brand from Home Depot, correct? :-)
Since this is a heat pump and has a compressor it will vibrate, this is why they say to use flexible connections. Soldered connections do not like vibrations of any kind. The best way if you already have copper pipe is to use the stainless braided from there to the tank, its what I plan on doing IF mine comes. I was the last to get in on the deal before they fixed the zipcode snafu and my order says in process with delivery tommorrow.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing..._25_years/ [reddit.com]
Most of the house is copper, so I'd have to go from copper to pex. Guess I'll just study up and learn how to sweat on an adapter for pex. Can't be that much different from soldering wires. Just gotta use the right flux and solder. :-)
EDIT- I should clarify.. I'm told to never directly connect Pex to the heater. Not sure if this applies to electric water heaters.
EDIT- The Rheem install manual does state for the inlet and outlet connections- "Flexible Connection recommended (Such as PEX)"
I connected up a second tank in my house a few months ago. I have a long house and the existing tank was 60 feet from my kitchen. It took a long time to get hot water and with my state rebate, it was ~$400 installed for the second unit. The units act as backups to each other with a couple of valves.
I dug up the price comparison I used to buy what I needed to hook it up the second unit as a new install.
I connected up a second tank in my house a few months ago. I have a long house and the existing tank was 60 feet from my kitchen. It took a long time to get hot water and with my state rebate, it was ~$400 installed for the second unit. The units act as backups to each other with a couple of valves.
I dug up the price comparison I used to buy what I needed to hook it up the second unit as a new install.
I connected up a second tank in my house a few months ago. I have a long house and the existing tank was 60 feet from my kitchen. It took a long time to get hot water and with my state rebate, it was ~$400 installed for the second unit. The units act as backups to each other with a couple of valves.
I dug up the price comparison I used to buy what I needed to hook it up the second unit as a new install.
Code: lowes supplyhouse.com
1 - 3/4 10' red lowes
2 - 3/4 10' blue lowes
2 - 18" water heater flex hoses w/swivel on each end 10.48 each 19.38/2
2 - 3/4 NPT to pex 3.68 each 4.68/2
6 - 3/4 elbow 2.98 each 10.38/6
2 - pex shutoff 11.98 each 13.78/2
2 - sharkbite slip tee 20.68 each 31.98/2
100' - 10/2 w/g romex 108.55 65.00 (ebay)
1 - 30 amp breaker 9.76 lowes
1 - wire nut lowes
6 - pex wall mount brackets lowes
1 - water heater pan 19.98 23.99
1 - 3/4 npt to 1/2 pvc adaptor 0.36
1 - 1/2 pvc elbow 0.20 Here's some pics of my gen 4 and gen 5 units. Since the cold water input is very close to the floor, I added some protection to reduce the chance someone might step on it.
I installed the unit using the disconnect for 240V power to Water heater. but the water heater wont turn on. did anyone face similar issue and if yes, what was the remedy ?
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I installed the unit using the disconnect for 240V power to Water heater. but the water heater wont turn on. did anyone face similar issue and if yes, what was the remedy ?
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