http://www.harborfreight.com/1195...yzaH4UvCXo
Haul-Master - item#90154 - 1195 lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Folding Utility Trailer, 48 in. x 96 in.
$399.99 regular, On sale for $299.99
Use coupon code 13276113 in-store(good on-line too) for 25% OFF ANY ONE ITEM.
Total is
$224.99 + Tax
240 bucks for a 4x8 decent little trailer that most crossover SUV's these days could pull, Requires assembly, but with another 60 in lumber and it'd be hard to find a heavily used one on craigslist for that cheap. Comes with title, just purchased one at my local HF.
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Countersink: basically drilling the hole out so the screw is flush and not sticking out to catch on anything you drag across the surface. 1: drill hole for bolt to go through, 2: drill hole directly into previous hole but only the depth of bolt head. if it's a machine bolt, drill bit should be no smaller than the diameter of the bolt. If it's a wood screw, same works, or I do it slightly smaller than the screw. It makes the screw hold in place better. I'm assuming machine screws in this case.
Caster: small cheap wheel, like the ones under your fridge.
A receiver/hitch is what's bolted or welded to your car's frame or truck to pull your trailer. It works with your drop hitch so your trailer can be towed at a level height. If you have a truck with 35" tires, you can't bumper-pull this, the back end will drag. You would need a drop-hitch. (On level ground, hold your trailer level (use a level, torpedo or otherwise; measure from the ground to the tongue. That's your optimum tow height. If your bumper is too high over this, you probably shouldn't pull with the bumper. This uses a 1 7/8" ball.
If you didn't understand half of that, you probably shouldn't be messing with this project.
Do us all a favor and DON'T buy this, and cause an extremely dangerous situation for those on the road around you.
That's what I did
If the design has not changed and the quality of materials remains the same then I highly recommend. Got to wonder (considering inflation) how HF can afford to sell at this price.
They use to make a "Model 8.4" with a 4' x 7'-10" base that was intended to fit in a full size pickup bed.
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the posts JUST fit 4x8. If you try to box it outwith inside walls against those posts, youre going to come up an inch or 2 short.
for example
http://www.outsidether
This is a straight 4x8 sheet uncut, based on the painted edges.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ipwWKvL25w...0/IMG_1674.JPG
but then this particular build put walls up, which would come up an 1.5" short.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUsciJk5tV...0/IMG_2050.JPG
When you design your railings (if you use them at all) should probably avoid intruding on the 4x8 working area, I can think of several methods, recessing the walls into the posts perhaps. I know that personally, an unobstructed 4x8 area would be required. even if that means a separate set of rails for sheeting vs dirt hauling, but I think you could manage both easily enough.
the real question is.... lay down three 2x4x12' and fit 12' drywall sheets with 4' hanging off the back... but that would rapidly tip weight off the tongue. perhaps a sheet or 2 if the job really calls for it.
that's bull. What you can do is enter the code online then print out the checkout page showing it applies.
Thanks
Do you know how much your cart weighs? I tried to move one on a motorcycle trailer of similar capacity and....even though the cart fit...it looked like the tires were going to pop and looked like the axles were bending. So...I drove the cart to my destination instead.
Do you know how much your cart weighs? I tried to move one on a motorcycle trailer of similar capacity and....even though the cart fit...it looked like the tires were going to pop and looked like the axles were bending. So...I drove the cart to my destination instead.
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http://www.ezgo.com/2five/learn/specs4.php