Cannondale Synapse Tiagra Endurance Road Bike (Various Sizes, Meteor Gray)
$1200
$1,725.00
+ Free Store Pickup
+40Deal Score
38,336 Views
Cannondale has Cannondale Synapse Tiagra Endurance Road Bike (Various Sizes, Meteor Gray) on sale for $1200. Select free store pickup where available.
Thanks to community member snowboarder160 for finding this deal.
Note: Availability for store pickup may vary by location.
Features:
SmartForm C2 alloy frame with full carbon fork delivers an exceptionally lightweight feel and high-performance quality
SAVE Micro-Suspension in the frame and fork insulates you from the bumps and vibrations of the road to keep you focused on the ride and connected to the road
Shimano Tiagra 2 x 10-speed derailleurs with an FSA Omega dual crank provide smooth and efficient shifting and excellent power transfer
Promax Decoder R mechanical disc brakes offer clean and powerful braking in all conditions
Internal cable routing provides easy maintenance while keeping riding area free of cable clutter
Cannondale has pretty big discounts on the 2021 Synapse bikes. Notably, the Tiagra is $1200, from an MSRP of $1700. Also discounts on the Sora and 105.
Exactly! These young guys wouldn't know a good bike if it hit em in the head! Back in the 80s u could get a Shimano Ultegra based bike with Reynolds tubing, beautiful lug work and gorgeous paint jobs too.
All that for about $1200 tops.
I I know that $1200 in 1985 is about $3,400 today... but those older frames were so beautiful!
OK, but how much of a ride quality difference does the plastic piece in the derailleur mean versus the difference between a road and gravel bike? One really needs to decide what type of bike is best for the riding that they want to do before quibbling about components.
Plastic components are fine for casual riding on a hybrid or city bike. If you are going to do some more serious climbing or faster, longer rides, plastic will distort and deform, causing shifting issues, failures. The 105 will also shift faster and smoother.
Personally, I now only ride road (or gravel) bikes with di2 electronic shifting, but that is an entirely different discussion.
Not obvious to me why someone would want to deal with hydraulic breaking on a road or even bike, particularly at this price point. Different story if riding something much heavier: MTB with bulky suspension, e-bike, for example. Better to invest the money in a better drivetrain and wheels.
OK, but how much of a ride quality difference does the plastic piece in the derailleur mean versus the difference between a road and gravel bike? One really needs to decide what type of bike is best for the riding that they want to do before quibbling about components.
Higher end derailleur and swifter will be smoother and last longer. If you are not in racing, competition, triathlon or those sort of activities too frequently, 105 is very fine. Commuting or casual riding will do fine with plastic parts but in long run, you will eventually hear more noise, shifter not as smooth but the bike still works. Those plastics are quite durable. Most Walmart bikes will use Claris or Sora but they still last, just not something ideal to take it to Mount Evans.
From top to bottom. Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105, Tiagra, Sora and Claris. One slightly better than the one hierarchy on top. Shimano has a gravel line of derailleur. Basically, you get what you pay for and what's you use the bike for.
Plastic components are fine for casual riding on a hybrid or city bike. If you are going to do some more serious climbing or faster, longer rides, plastic will distort and deform, causing shifting issues, failures. The 105 will also shift faster and smoother.
Personally, I now only ride road (or gravel) bikes with di2 electronic shifting, but that is an entirely different discussion.
Not obvious to me why someone would want to deal with hydraulic breaking on a road or even bike, particularly at this price point. Different story if riding something much heavier: MTB with bulky suspension, e-bike, for example. Better to invest the money in a better drivetrain and wheels.
I think you are completely underestimating the strength of modern plastics. That derailleur is not going to deform while climbing. It'll work great when new, but will probably develop some slop over the years which will moderately affect shifting performance - but it is easily replaceable at that time.
The big difference between the bikes is the Cannondale is a road bike which will perform horribly on the non-tarmac surfaces that the Specialized is designed to conquer. Even if you were to put Dura Ace on it, the Cannondale would completely suck in those conditions.
I think you are completely underestimating the strength of modern plastics. That derailleur is not going to deform while climbing. It'll work great when new, but will probably develop some slop over the years which will moderately affect shifting performance - but it is easily replaceable at that time.
The average person will not understand why the shifting performance has degraded, have the knowhow or tools to replace the plastic components. Most will end up getting ripped off by their local bike shop, who will likely sell them a replacement derailleur rather than service the existing one.
At the end of the day, the total cost of ownership will likely be the same or less, better overall performance with the 105.
Likewise, I would discourage an entry level rider to invest in Ultegra or Dura-Ace components - unless of course they are di2.
The big difference between the bikes is the Cannondale is a road bike which will perform horribly on the non-tarmac surfaces that the Specialized is designed to conquer. Even if you were to put Dura Ace on it, the Cannondale would completely suck in those conditions.
Main difference between road and gravel are the sizes of the rear cassette and tires - and possibly a longer rear derailleur cage for the larger cassette. Most modern road bikes with disc brakes can be used for riding on gravel simply with a different set of wheels, visa versa. Some gravel bikes (particularly gravel e-bikes) are available with lightweight front suspension, no front derailleur (following MTB trend), latter would still be adequate for a road conversion - particularly with a 12-speed rear derailleur.
There are some slight differences in the geometries of most gravel vs road bikes, but unless the buyer is paying for a professional fitting, customizing the stem and seatpost, they will not notice the difference. An argument can be made that manufacturers created the subtle difference to help road cyclists justify buying another bike.
The average person will not understand why the shifting performance has degraded, have the knowhow or tools to replace the plastic components. Most will end up getting ripped off by their local bike shop, who will likely sell them a replacement derailleur rather than service the existing one.
At the end of the day, the total cost of ownership will likely be the same or less, better overall performance with the 105.
Likewise, I would discourage an entry level rider to invest in Ultegra or Dura-Ace components - unless of course they are di2.
Good grief. If you call selling them a derailleur at a fair price and being compensated for the time to install it a rip-off, then we are never going to agree on anything. And most people won't ever ride enough to wear out the part anyways.
Quote
from eshank
:
Main difference between road and gravel are the sizes of the rear cassette and tires - and possibly a longer rear derailleur cage for the larger cassette. Most modern road bikes with disc brakes can be used for riding on gravel simply with a different set of wheels, visa versa. Some gravel bikes (particularly gravel e-bikes) are available with lightweight front suspension, no front derailleur (following MTB trend), latter would still be adequate for a road conversion - particularly with a 12-speed rear derailleur.
There are some slight differences in the geometries of most gravel vs road bikes, but unless the buyer is paying for a professional fitting, customizing the stem and seatpost, they will not notice the difference. An argument can be made that manufacturers created the subtle difference to help road cyclists justify buying another bike.
So just buy a new derailleur, cassette, wheels, and tires (if the frame and fork are even wide enough) to turn it into a gravel bike with poor geometry. How much is that going to cost?
I think that before worrying about a plastic bit in a derailleur, it'd be best to get the right style of bike for the riding that one plans in the first place. I don't care what the specs are or what the price is, because it really isn't much of a deal if it is the wrong bike for the rider.
This bike is a good odeal. Cannondale Synapse with Tiagra is sort of like a Toyota Corolla. It won't be the world's best or sexiest bike, but it will be reliable and sufficient for m
So just buy a new derailleur, cassette, wheels, and tires (if the frame and fork are even wide enough) to turn it into a gravel bike with poor geometry. How much is that going to cost?
Not a new derailleur; worst case a longer cage. Simple task for anyone with the skill to replace plastic derailleur components, parts should be less than $50.
Most any modern disc brake road bike will have the frame and fork clearance to take at least a 32 mm wide tire, which should be suitable for gravel.
A Shimano 105 cassette, entry level wheels and tires could be had for well under $500, or much less than half of the price of a new bike. For those who prefer higher level bikes and components, I would expect the percentage to be closer to 1/3.
Good grief. If you call selling them a derailleur at a fair price and being compensated for the time to install it a rip-off, then we are never going to agree on anything. And most people won't ever ride enough to wear out the part anyways.
Just going by recent experience. Bike shops in our area are still extremely busy, having difficulties finding parts. There is little interest in replacing cheap components on an entry level derailleur, will typically quote an above retail price for a new derailleur, excessive labor charge, long lead-time.
I fortunately work with a highly skilled mobile mechanic, who charges fair rates, allows me to source my own components - but few people are aware of such options.
67 Comments
Your comment cannot be blank.
Featured Comments
Good deal on a Tiagra bike. Hydraulic brakes are great, but unless you really need them, they're a pain to maintain, bleed, etc.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I I know that $1200 in 1985 is about $3,400 today... but those older frames were so beautiful!
Two quick examples for $999 shipped: https://bikesdirect.com/products/...ir_xii.htm
https://bikesdirect.com/products/..._elite.htm
My first real road bike was a Motobecane from Bikes Direct; other than the wheels, I was very happy with it, held up extremely well.
Personally, I now only ride road (or gravel) bikes with di2 electronic shifting, but that is an entirely different discussion.
Not obvious to me why someone would want to deal with hydraulic breaking on a road or even bike, particularly at this price point. Different story if riding something much heavier: MTB with bulky suspension, e-bike, for example. Better to invest the money in a better drivetrain and wheels.
From top to bottom. Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105, Tiagra, Sora and Claris. One slightly better than the one hierarchy on top. Shimano has a gravel line of derailleur. Basically, you get what you pay for and what's you use the bike for.
Personally, I now only ride road (or gravel) bikes with di2 electronic shifting, but that is an entirely different discussion.
Not obvious to me why someone would want to deal with hydraulic breaking on a road or even bike, particularly at this price point. Different story if riding something much heavier: MTB with bulky suspension, e-bike, for example. Better to invest the money in a better drivetrain and wheels.
The big difference between the bikes is the Cannondale is a road bike which will perform horribly on the non-tarmac surfaces that the Specialized is designed to conquer. Even if you were to put Dura Ace on it, the Cannondale would completely suck in those conditions.
At the end of the day, the total cost of ownership will likely be the same or less, better overall performance with the 105.
Likewise, I would discourage an entry level rider to invest in Ultegra or Dura-Ace components - unless of course they are di2.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank norcal007
There are some slight differences in the geometries of most gravel vs road bikes, but unless the buyer is paying for a professional fitting, customizing the stem and seatpost, they will not notice the difference. An argument can be made that manufacturers created the subtle difference to help road cyclists justify buying another bike.
At the end of the day, the total cost of ownership will likely be the same or less, better overall performance with the 105.
Likewise, I would discourage an entry level rider to invest in Ultegra or Dura-Ace components - unless of course they are di2.
There are some slight differences in the geometries of most gravel vs road bikes, but unless the buyer is paying for a professional fitting, customizing the stem and seatpost, they will not notice the difference. An argument can be made that manufacturers created the subtle difference to help road cyclists justify buying another bike.
I think that before worrying about a plastic bit in a derailleur, it'd be best to get the right style of bike for the riding that one plans in the first place. I don't care what the specs are or what the price is, because it really isn't much of a deal if it is the wrong bike for the rider.
This bike is a good odeal. Cannondale Synapse with Tiagra is sort of like a Toyota Corolla. It won't be the world's best or sexiest bike, but it will be reliable and sufficient for m
I knew it was youwhen you showed up in your clunky Tiagra groupset
Most any modern disc brake road bike will have the frame and fork clearance to take at least a 32 mm wide tire, which should be suitable for gravel.
A Shimano 105 cassette, entry level wheels and tires could be had for well under $500, or much less than half of the price of a new bike. For those who prefer higher level bikes and components, I would expect the percentage to be closer to 1/3.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I fortunately work with a highly skilled mobile mechanic, who charges fair rates, allows me to source my own components - but few people are aware of such options.