Power Stop KOE5334 Front Brake Rotors & Ceramic Pads (Select '10-'19 Buick, Chevy)
$66.70
$148.78
+ Free S/H w/ Prime
+32Deal Score
71,068 Views
Woot has Power Stop KOE5334 Front Brake Rotors & Ceramic Brake Pads Kit for Select 2010-2017 Buick, Chevrolet, GMC, Saab on sale for $66.65.Shipping is free w/ Amazon Prime or is otherwise a flat $6 per order.
Thanks to community member BabyBubba for finding this deal.
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Compatible Makes and Models (see the corresponding Amazon product page for additional details):
2010 Buick Allure-All Models
2010-2016 Buick Lacrosse-Models With 321mm Front Rotors; or 17" Wheels
2011-2016 Buick Regal-Models With 321mm Front Disc; Single Piston Front Calipers; Vented Rear Disc
2017-2018 Buick Regal-Models With Single Piston Front Calipers with 321mm front disc-US Spec Vehicles
2010-2017 Chevrolet Equinox-All Models
2014-2016 Chevrolet Impala-New Body Style Models
2017-2019 Chevrolet Impala-All Models
2016 Chevrolet Malibu Limited-Models With 321mm Front Rotors
Woot! has the new Power Stop KOE5334 Front Brake Rotors & Ceramic Brake Pads Kit For Select 2010-2017 Buick, Chevrolet, GMC, Saab for $66.65. Shipping is free.
Description
This kit fits:
2010 Buick Allure-All Models
2010-2016 Buick Lacrosse-Models With 321mm Front Rotors; or 17" Wheels
2011-2016 Buick Regal-Models With 321mm Front Disc; Single Piston Front Calipers; Vented Rear Disc
2017-2018 Buick Regal-Models With Single Piston Front Calipers with 321mm front disc-US Spec Vehicles
2010-2017 Chevrolet Equinox-All Models
2014-2016 Chevrolet Impala-New Body Style Models
2017-2019 Chevrolet Impala-All Models
2016 Chevrolet Malibu Limited-Models With 321mm Front Rotors
2010-2017 GMC Terrain-All Models
2011 Saab 9-5-Models With 321mm Front Rotors
Here's an idea. Maybe you can go to your local AutoZone and pay $204.99 for the exact same set. Same brand, same part number, same factory fresh new condition, identical in every way. Maybe tripling the price will make you and your family feel safer.
Random
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I've used powerstop many times on a bunch of vehicles, I always buy cheap rotors and good pads. In the rust belt, the rotors are always shot by the time the pads are low. I've seen cheap pads separate, so that's the only concern I have with cheap brakes. This is for your basic commuter, if you drive hard then a better rotor will also help dissipate heat, etc.
The old rotor looks spotless and barely shows any wear marks. The grooves are minimal. Nevertheless I replaced it since I was too lazy to have them resurfaced. I did clean the surfaces. So all that remains is checking the shims to see if they are quality or not, and then I'll look into Akebono pads. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughtful insights.
Make sure the hub is clean where the rotor mates to it. If the rotor isn't sitting square on the hub it will cause run-out, making the caliper slide back and forth when braking and possibly squeaking. Also make sure the pads are not loose or too tight in the caliper bracket and the rattle clips are clean. That's all I got through the interwebs.
After purchasing 2011 G25, I bought Power Stop brand front/rear drilled/slotted rotors about two years ago from Rockauto. I paired them with AutoZone gold ceramic brake pads. So far, no complaints. Difference in stopping power is highly noticable(previous owner of the car had put cheap pads/rotors).
TIL Nissan/Infiniti made a 2.5 liter version of the VQ engine. Available in several car in European and Asian markets, but brought to the US market only in the G series (same chassis as G35 and G37), but was discontinued after 3 years due to slow sales.
Powerstop is the worst brand of brake parts I have ever used and I have tried many. Even the cheapest stuff from Advance Auto has been better. Pads wear fast and the rotors are pure garbage, warping and pitting...
Powerstop is the worst brand of brake parts I have ever used and I have tried many. Even the cheapest stuff from Advance Auto has been better. Pads wear fast and the rotors are pure garbage, warping and pitting...
I've been using Power Stop pads and rotors on my Jeep for at least 5 years and have not one single complaint. And saying they wear out fast is purely subjective. I've tried just about every brand from Auto Zone and O'Reillys- now THOSE are garbage!
You're correct. When people say their rotors warped, it's most likely because they were installed incorrectly.
After recently dealing with brake judder after installing new pads and having the old rotors turned, even though I went through the bedding process, only to have them start vibrating a few months later, I've learned to always install new rotors, be very particular about bedding, sand the hub, wash the rotors in soapy water to remove oils AND small bits of metal from manufacturing, and torque the lug nuts. A few months after installing those pads, I again installed new pads AND new rotors, and was very careful about how I bedded them, all has been good. When bedding, after doing hard stops, you have to be sure not to sit with the brakes applied until after they've cooled after a few minutes of driving. It takes some planning. If doing just the front, you could use the parking brake to help stop/stay stopped.
Powerstop is the worst brand of brake parts I have ever used and I have tried many. Even the cheapest stuff from Advance Auto has been better. Pads wear fast and the rotors are pure garbage, warping and pitting...
I don't trust a company that pushes the idea of bedding new pads. New cars coming out of the factory are not subjected to "bedding new pads". If the bearing, suspension, brake caliper, and rotor are in good shape, then there is ZERO need for brake bedding if one uses quality pads. If the car drives well with old worn out pads, then it should perform better with new quality pads assuming the new pads are properly installed.
New pads may only contact a small section of the rotor's braking surface, resulting in uneven thermal load when one attempts bed-in. Most cars today are equipped with ABS. New quality pads are perfectly capable of locking up the wheel, even if the pads are not "bed-in".
99% of the people don't take their cars to the racetrack after installing new pads. Akebono, a well respected brake pads manufacturer do not advocate the practice of bed-in brake pads. Why bed-in new pads if you don't race in the street?
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This kit fits:
2010 Buick Allure-All Models
2010-2016 Buick Lacrosse-Models With 321mm Front Rotors; or 17" Wheels
2011-2016 Buick Regal-Models With 321mm Front Disc; Single Piston Front Calipers; Vented Rear Disc
2017-2018 Buick Regal-Models With Single Piston Front Calipers with 321mm front disc-US Spec Vehicles
2010-2017 Chevrolet Equinox-All Models
2014-2016 Chevrolet Impala-New Body Style Models
2017-2019 Chevrolet Impala-All Models
2016 Chevrolet Malibu Limited-Models With 321mm Front Rotors
2010-2017 GMC Terrain-All Models
2011 Saab 9-5-Models With 321mm Front Rotors
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Make sure the hub is clean where the rotor mates to it. If the rotor isn't sitting square on the hub it will cause run-out, making the caliper slide back and forth when braking and possibly squeaking. Also make sure the pads are not loose or too tight in the caliper bracket and the rattle clips are clean. That's all I got through the interwebs.
TIL Nissan/Infiniti made a 2.5 liter version of the VQ engine. Available in several car in European and Asian markets, but brought to the US market only in the G series (same chassis as G35 and G37), but was discontinued after 3 years due to slow sales.
Those are carbon ceramics on super/hyper cars
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I've been using Power Stop pads and rotors on my Jeep for at least 5 years and have not one single complaint. And saying they wear out fast is purely subjective. I've tried just about every brand from Auto Zone and O'Reillys- now THOSE are garbage!
Did you put a bow in it?
After recently dealing with brake judder after installing new pads and having the old rotors turned, even though I went through the bedding process, only to have them start vibrating a few months later, I've learned to always install new rotors, be very particular about bedding, sand the hub, wash the rotors in soapy water to remove oils AND small bits of metal from manufacturing, and torque the lug nuts. A few months after installing those pads, I again installed new pads AND new rotors, and was very careful about how I bedded them, all has been good. When bedding, after doing hard stops, you have to be sure not to sit with the brakes applied until after they've cooled after a few minutes of driving. It takes some planning. If doing just the front, you could use the parking brake to help stop/stay stopped.
https://www.advicsafter
https://www.wagnerbrake
https://www.wagnerbrake
https://www.powerstop.c
Also car manufacturers don't make brakes. It's funny to hear people say x brand sucks, but it's possible that brand made the OEM brakes.
https://www.centricpart
https://www.centricpart
99% of the people don't take their cars to the racetrack after installing new pads. Akebono, a well respected brake pads manufacturer do not advocate the practice of bed-in brake pads. Why bed-in new pads if you don't race in the street?
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