Yima Top via Amazon has AIYIMA A07 Class D 2-Channel Dual 300W Amplifier (TPA3255) on sale for $59.99 when you clip the 25% off coupon on the item page. Shipping is free.
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Model: AIYIMA A07 TPA3255 Power Amplifier 300Wx2 HiFi Class D Stereo Digital Audio Amp 2.0 Channel Amplifier for Passive Speaker Home Audio (A07+DC 32V Power Adapter)
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This is a great amp for the price. The TPA3255 is a bit of a beast. From crap outputs like a tv or a low/mid range motherboard there is some signal noise which is unfortunate. I'd recommend a DAC if you get this, also upgrade to a 48v PSU for another $25 or so. This is probably the most power out of a mini-amp you can get for under $100.
These are the specs from Texas Instruments website:
Total Output Power at 10%THD+N
315-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
185-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
600-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
Total Output Power at 1%THD+N
260-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
150-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
480-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
Note that you do have to upgrade the power supply to 48V if you want to get the 75w per channel, otherwise you'll be getting about 56w per channel out of the box with the included 32V PSU.
But 75W per channel at 8 Ω is still really good for an amp of this size and cost, it is similar to most low end receivers that cost $300 to $600 (Denon AVR-S760H for example)
Oh suuuure it will output 300 watts. Right before it bursts into flames because you'd have to overvolt the sh!t out of it to obtain those numbers. I'm sure it's great for bookshelf speakers and very efficient larger speakers though.
With the included power supply (32V 5A) this baby puts out 77 Wpc @ 4 ohm and 48 Wpc @ 8 ohm. Thats pretty good for the price and size; signal to noise is not great though.
For the low-end, at 20 Hz, max power drops to 55W @ 4 ohm.
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With the included power supply (32V 5A) this baby puts out 77 Wpc @ 4 ohm and 48 Wpc @ 8 ohm. Thats pretty good for the price and size; signal to noise is not great though.
For the low-end, at 20 Hz, max power drops to 55W @ 4 ohm.
Yeah, Class D Amps are not great for sub sonic frequencies. For Mids and Highs they are so-so
I'm looking for advice. I recently got a sim racing rig setup. I'm looking to add something similar to the butt kicker "speaker" system for a little better feedback when getting wheel slip and such. I want to run 1 at each corner for all 4 wheels and then one under the seat for gear shit and engine feedback. Would this be okay or worth using for a setup like that. Do I need a converter? I don't know much about speaker or inductive setups.
I'm looking for advice. I recently got a sim racing rig setup. I'm looking to add something similar to the butt kicker "speaker" system for a little better feedback when getting wheel slip and such. I want to run 1 at each corner for all 4 wheels and then one under the seat for gear shit and engine feedback. Would this be okay or worth using for a setup like that. Do I need a converter? I don't know much about speaker or inductive setups.
I'd look for something with a lot more power for that
These are great amps for 60 bucks, for something like desktop listening or a situation where you don't need a remote for power or volume. Though I have had a PSU failure on one of my two (which they replaced for free)
What brand and model towers? Your speakers will have a nominal impedance rating and a power rating. If your speakers are rated at 8 ohms and recommended power is 15w to 100w, this amp will drive them to 50% of their rating, as it puts out 48 watts per channel (per speaker).
This is a great amp for the price. The TPA3255 is a bit of a beast. From crap outputs like a tv or a low/mid range motherboard there is some signal noise which is unfortunate. I'd recommend a DAC if you get this, also upgrade to a 48v PSU for another $25 or so. This is probably the most power out of a mini-amp you can get for under $100.
These are the specs from Texas Instruments website:
Total Output Power at 10%THD+N
315-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
185-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
600-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
Total Output Power at 1%THD+N
260-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
150-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
480-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
Note that you do have to upgrade the power supply to 48V if you want to get the 75w per channel, otherwise you'll be getting about 56w per channel out of the box with the included 32V PSU.
But 75W per channel at 8 Ω is still really good for an amp of this size and cost, it is similar to most low end receivers that cost $300 to $600 (Denon AVR-S760H for example)
What's your thoughts on this one…. It seems very similar (same chip, different brand), but has treble and bass controls for nearly the same price:
I'm using several of these around the house with WIIM streamers, mine are fosi amps. The streamer and amp together run a bit over $100. I added speakers to the back porch and garage and they work well for both instances.
I second that these devices can't handle pushing 300 watts at 4 ohms. I'd expect my vega re38s or klipsch rf7s to burn this thing up if I attempted it.
Cheapest way to add Spotify to this? Trying to run some outdoor speakers. Used to have a huge receiver, but after moving the room around trying to tuck something behind a sofa.
Cheapest way to add Spotify to this? Trying to run some outdoor speakers. Used to have a huge receiver, but after moving the room around trying to tuck something behind a sofa.
I'm using a WIIM streamer connected to amps like this. Pandora, Spotify, airplay, and just about anything else you would need.
I was almost gonna get this but then I remembered that I still have two Panasonic SA-XR10 5.1 Class D (TI-TAS5012 chips) surround receivers from a FW deal almost 20 years ago. I think I paid $100 each for two pristine Best Buy display models. Both made in Japan. Both stuck in a cardboard box for the past 14 years.
Thank you for the reminder! What's really stupid is that I bought two other Pioneer surround amps in the intervening years, primarily because they were black and not silver, and both of the Pioneers have since failed.
I've seen a few people in this thread that made comments about using these to power transducers that are mounted to couches for the theater experience- I've been thinking about doing this for a while now but am very inexperienced and not sure where to start.
Can someone here recommend a few good transducers and amps for this purpose? Thanks in advance.
I have this amp and love it. I upgraded the opamps to sparkos labs discrete opamps and I'm very happy.
Do you really notice a difference with another opamp? How could you even notice such a slight difference in sound? I was thinking about trying it, but I heard there isn't much difference in sound.
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These are the specs from Texas Instruments website:
Total Output Power at 10%THD+N
315-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
185-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
600-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
Total Output Power at 1%THD+N
260-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
150-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
480-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
Note that you do have to upgrade the power supply to 48V if you want to get the 75w per channel, otherwise you'll be getting about 56w per channel out of the box with the included 32V PSU.
But 75W per channel at 8 Ω is still really good for an amp of this size and cost, it is similar to most low end receivers that cost $300 to $600 (Denon AVR-S760H for example)
With the included power supply (32V 5A) this baby puts out 77 Wpc @ 4 ohm and 48 Wpc @ 8 ohm. Thats pretty good for the price and size; signal to noise is not great though.
For the low-end, at 20 Hz, max power drops to 55W @ 4 ohm.
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With the included power supply (32V 5A) this baby puts out 77 Wpc @ 4 ohm and 48 Wpc @ 8 ohm. Thats pretty good for the price and size; signal to noise is not great though.
For the low-end, at 20 Hz, max power drops to 55W @ 4 ohm.
These are great amps for 60 bucks, for something like desktop listening or a situation where you don't need a remote for power or volume. Though I have had a PSU failure on one of my two (which they replaced for free)
What brand and model towers? Your speakers will have a nominal impedance rating and a power rating. If your speakers are rated at 8 ohms and recommended power is 15w to 100w, this amp will drive them to 50% of their rating, as it puts out 48 watts per channel (per speaker).
These are the specs from Texas Instruments website:
Total Output Power at 10%THD+N
315-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
185-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
600-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
Total Output Power at 1%THD+N
260-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
150-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
480-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
Note that you do have to upgrade the power supply to 48V if you want to get the 75w per channel, otherwise you'll be getting about 56w per channel out of the box with the included 32V PSU.
But 75W per channel at 8 Ω is still really good for an amp of this size and cost, it is similar to most low end receivers that cost $300 to $600 (Denon AVR-S760H for example)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MJBG53V
I second that these devices can't handle pushing 300 watts at 4 ohms. I'd expect my vega re38s or klipsch rf7s to burn this thing up if I attempted it.
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I'm using a WIIM streamer connected to amps like this. Pandora, Spotify, airplay, and just about anything else you would need.
Thank you for the reminder! What's really stupid is that I bought two other Pioneer surround amps in the intervening years, primarily because they were black and not silver, and both of the Pioneers have since failed.
Can someone here recommend a few good transducers and amps for this purpose? Thanks in advance.
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